Fatima Bhutto: History in the making

Fatima_bhutto

The backdrop was ironic. It's the opening night of Asia House's annual literature festival and the evening before the day the UK votes for it's next Prime Minister. The topic on everyone's lips, as they wait for the evening to start is, of course, politics. My eavesdropping skills tell me that there's undoubtedly an air of skepticism among this literary bunch when it comes to change for the country. The chatter gradually quietens down as Fatima Bhutto, the evening's guest speaker, is introduced. Suddenly the audience is given a stark and timely reminder of the truly ugly face of politics that exists in other parts of the world, in this case, Pakistan, and how fortunate we are, that while we may not always get the change we want, a general election in the UK doesn't go hand in hand with death and violence.

Perhaps no one has seen a more frightening side of politics than Fatima Bhutto, niece of the former Pakistani prime minister Benazir Bhutto, who was assassinated in 2007. But Benazir is not the woman Fatima enjoys being associated with. So I'll reintroduce her as daughter of Mir Murtaza Bhutto, Pakistani opposition leader, assassinated in 1996. Or, as grand daughter of Zulkifar Ali Bhutto, former Pakistani Prime Minister, executed in 1979, or indeed niece of Shahnawaz Bhutto, also an opposition leader, murdered in 1985. You get the picture. Bhutto is the daughter of a political dynasty for whom death has always been right around the corner.

In her brand new book Songs of Blood and Sword: A Daughter's Memoir, 27-year old Fatima aims to fulfil her father's last request to write a book on his life and reveal truths about his death. She makes a clear statement that she believes Benazir Bhutto, her father's elder sister, had a significant role in planning her beloved father's assassination. She writes candidly about the corruption that's long been rife in Pakistan's government. This bold and brave move has changed her life in ways that were not unexpected. "I left Karachi three weeks ago, and I've been told not to go back," she explains. And while most first time authors will hope that the critics go easy, Fatima is pleased with the angry reactions the book has received. "People who have attacked the book are people who have benefited from the governments of Benazir Bhutto and Asif Zardari. If I wasn't attacked, I would have been doing something wrong," she says.

One would expect a young woman who has experienced such trauma to be angry, revengeful and bitter. Fatima is none of these.  It's quite obvious that she has no time for bitterness, or superstition for that matter, "I don't believe in the Bhutto curse that people talk about. Mistakes were made and we need to talk about these mistakes." She admits that her grandfather, Zulfikar Ali Bhutto, made some of these mistakes "like all extraordinary men do", referring to the treatment of the Ahmedis and the intervention of Balochistan during his governance. She believes grandfather shouldn't have followed that path in history.

Moving on to her father Mir Murtaza Bhutto, a man who, quite simply, she loved with everything she had. She speaks about the events of the night he was murdered. While gunshots were fired outside the famous Bhutto house, 70 Clifton, a 14 year old Fatima held on tightly to her six year old brother in the corner of a room in the house, worrying about the safety of her father who, at the time, was a vocal critic of his sister's government. Benazir refused to come to the phone when her frightened teenage niece called to enquire about his whereabouts. So she heard the dreaded news from an unsympathetic Asif Zardari, Benazir's husband (and the current President of Pakistan), "Oh, don't you know?" he said, "Your father's been shot." Fatima later cracks a joke which makes her feelings towards her family blindingly obvious: "With family like mine, who needs enemies?"

Remembering what life was like with her father, Fatima recounts happy memories, practical jokes, teasing and lots of laughter. "We lived a full and beautiful life but there was always a warning that it may not last very long." She now lives with her (not biological) mother Ghinwa with whom she shares a very close bond. "My mother is the reason I am alive today, and we live peacefully for justice, not for anger and hate," she says.

So what does justice for her father's death look like? Well, no one has been charged for it, in fact, she explains that the co-accused have been rewarded with medals. She seems a little unsurprised at this and perhaps has never expected any other outcome. Her concern now is the message this sends out to Pakistan and to the world, "These actions say that you can kill in Pakistan, and get away with it."

Fatima's fearless voice is, what many believe, is desperately needed in Pakistani politics today. "Pakistan has no proper health and education service. It is a nuclear state yet we are unable to run refrigerators! People need to care more about the lack of electricity and less about cricket. We need to ask questions and hold the government accountable," she says.

To the disappointment of many, in particular Pakistan's youth, Fatima has no intention to enter politics and follow her father's path. "Corruption is the political ethic of this country" she says. But equally she has no intention of being a passive bystander and maintains that she will continue to protest through her writing. "I've always wanted to be a writer and I am able to speak more freely outside the system."

For now though, Fatima is busy making time for the journalists falling over themselves trying to get an interview, and who can blame them? She is quite simply a remarkable (not to mention beautiful and humble) young woman, pushing for change in one of the world's most volatile countries through her brilliant writing. Her fearless nature, her fascinating story in Songs of Blood and Sword, and of course the Bhutto name, have already made her history in the making.

Fatima Bhutto will be speaking at the DSC South Asian Literature Festival, the first ever South Asian lit fest to be held in London, between 15-24th October 2010.

If anyone is interested, I would like to make Songs of Blood and Sword the text for my next book club meeting. You can join this South Asian literature book club on Facebook at this link.


God is Love is Nature is Dance

This documentary demonstrates that real art, and the beauty it creates, transcends borders, religion and some may say, even gender. Fasih Ur-Rehman is an incredible Kathak dancer from Pakistan. He belongs to what has become known as the fourth gharana of Kathak - the Lahore gharana.  His elegance and the definition of his moves are truly amazing. Like one of the comments say, he really does capture the essence of Kathak. I highly recommend watching all three videos, for the sense of peace it'll give you, for the inspiration if you're a dancer, and for the sweet raags if you love classical music. Ur-Rehman does Salaami, a Tarana and a Thumri, with clear explanations in each. Watch even if you don't know the first thing about Kathak!

An evening with the one and only... Vikram Seth

Last night the London School of Economics held a lecture on Friendship and Poetry with the literary maestro, and my most favourite author, Vikram Seth. Anyone who has read A Suitable Boy, or any of Seth's novels and poetry, would understand the excitement you feel at the prospect of hearing him speak. All his narration comes alive, and it's such a privilege to meet in person the man behind all that flawless and compelling prose that - once read, never ever leaves you.

This was the second time I'd heard Seth speak, the first time round was at the Goethe Institute as part of the Indian Highway exhibition hosted by the Serpentine Gallery last year. He and his sister Aradhana Seth (documentary film maker and art director) were in conversation with Hans Ulrich Obrist. Both that talk and last night's were a true pleasure to attend. 

If you've never seen or heard Vikram Seth before, the most obvious thing to say about him is that what he lacks in physical presence, (he's quite a small man) he makes up with his charming, intelligent and entertaining – but shy and humble – personality. Look around an audience with Seth and you'll see that everyone is captivated by his warmth and his talent. 

Last night's lecture was about the relationship between friendship and poetry, and Seth was introduced by another prolific Indian author, commentator, and his good friend Amartya Sen. Seth delighted the loyal audience with anecdotes of the many special friendships he has shared with people both alive and those no longer so. He touched on various ideas, for example, can you only be friends with equals? Also, he addressed friendship's biggest rivals, romantic love and sexual passion, whether you can live without either of them and whether the latter can exist without the former. He then went on to recite excellent poems by Chinese authors (translated by Seth, who speaks Mandarin Chinese fluently) and then compared these to English poems by Timothy Steele, and his own - what can only be described a fantastic and poem of betrayal in friendship -  The Monkey And The Crocodile, which is based on the well known Panchatantram fable of the same name. The poem is from his book Beastly Tales from Here and There and was undoubtedly the highlight of the evening. You can read an excerpt here

In the Q&A, Seth was asked about the friendship between Maan and Feroz in A Suitable Boy, a subject of much curiosity His interpretation was as follows:  "Their friendship is a little more than platonic, but it's overruled by the tragedy that occurs. There certainly is something between them, a slight sexual attraction, but it's not the dominant element of their friendship". This led nicely onto the next question in the audience from a young girl who asks Seth, can a guy and a girl have a truly platonic friendship, or is that idea just a way for guys to get their way with girls?! To this Seth gave a wonderful response "It depends, are you talking about a straight man?" he said. "I think I'll be required to respond to this as Agony Uncle rather than author! One ought not to be so cynical, platonic friendships between a man and a woman depend on the calibre, generosity and charm of those two people. But if you're referring to something in particular, all I'll say is, 'give the guy a chance'!" From where I was sitting I could see the girl's cheeks went as pink as the top she was wearing! 

To my disappointment there was no mention of Seth's forthcoming novel A Suitable Girl, which the literary world is eagerly awaiting (Set in current times, Lata is 75-80 years old and looking for a wife for her grandson!). The question on everyone's lips is whether it's going to be a 1400 page wrist breaker like A Suitable Boy!

But of course, it's impossible to be disappointed after an evening with Vikram Seth, because as Amartya Sen said  "Vikram always manages to convert a large audience of strangers into a a gathering of friends". 

Along the silk route....In Sri Lanka

Its a great time to be on the plush island of Sri Lanka right now, people are hopeful as the likelihood of peace and political stability on the island is greater then ever before. It is felt that the civil war is definitely over this time round, and with the elections just around the corner, there's a positive spirit in the air. We're currently en route to Maho, north of Colombo to visit a new boutique hotel and Yoga retreat called Ulpotha. Its about a 3 hour drive and so far the roads have been bump free - after a breakfast of dosa and chutney (how could I resist?) - I'm glad its a smooth drive. Needless to say, the weather is perfect, our guide, Don, tells us that it's a lot hotter than it should be right now, I didn't hear anyone on the group complaining! It was 26 degrees when we landed at Colombo airport yesterday at 3 am.. So you can imagine what it must be like at midday. Day one of our week-long stay was spent in the capital, a small but vibrant city, where tall and modern-looking replicas of the twin towers (they also call it the World Trade Centre) sit next to old colonial government buildings. There's not that much to do in the capital, but a visit to the iconic Galle Face Hotel and a moonlit walk beside the Indian Ocean a couple of ways to get a feel of the city. Upon my request, Don's telling us about the Ramayan trail now, to think, Ram and Ravan battled on this very island! So ill sign off for the time being. P.S. Yes, the palm trees are a plenty, they're tall and green and full of coconuts, and if any of you watched Gordon Ramsey's great Indian escape, you'll remember that he tried some Toddi, a potent alcoholic drink made from a special flower... 11 o'clock pick me up maybe?! Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange

A connection with music...

Since entering the world of Kathak, my appreciation of both Hindustani and Pakistani classical music has really grown. I'm still totally uneducated about raags and look forward to the day when I can listen to a song and think "Haan this is Raag Bharivi or Raag Darbari." But I've always been completely in awe of Sufi and Ghazal singers and Taranas and Thumris and have been fortunate enough to see great singers like Ghulam Ali (at the Royal Albert Hall) and Raahat Fateh Ali Khan (Queen Elizabeth Hall) in concert and of course Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan songs have entertained me for hours on end - transporting me into a world far away from this one! I also once saw an excellent Qawwali group from Afghanistan in this crazy underground club in Shoreditch.... that was definitely a night to remember!

Pakistan has produced some exceptional singers and one of my absolute favorites of today is Shafqat Amanat Ali - former lead singer of Fuzon. Shafqat shot to fame with Aankhon ke Saagar and Khamaaj, which he sang so beautifully and it's a song that'll forever remain close to my heart for various reasons... To celebrate these talented artistes and their creativity, Pakistan holds an annual six week television series called Coke Studio - where experienced singers - the creme de la creme - come together, jam, experiment with their existing songs, add a sample of something here and tweak some notes there and recreate already stunning music into something even better with the help of the industry's best producers and musicians. This year, Shafqat Amanat Ali and Atif Aslam were both part of Coke Studio and boy did they impress!

Atif Aslam has - as everyone knows - been criticized for his lack of training and some believe - dare I even say it - that he also lacks in Sur... Personally I feel that Atif sings from the heart, and although he could improve by training classically, he's been blessed with a unique and soulful voice that really pulls on the listener's heartstrings. He has a dard in his voice that some people train for years and still fail to achieve. That together with his strumming of the guitar, fresh look and his soft rock tunes make him so popular. He stunned critics with his performances on Coke Studio. Jal Pari and Kinara were both amazing and if they were records or video tapes - mine would be destroyed by now as I've replayed thousands of times!

Thankfully we can watch online now and I can share my favourite videos with anyone who's interested. The first is an interview with Shafqat Amanat Ali behind the scenes at Coke Studio, episode 2, before the Aankhon Ke Saagar performance. How is it that musicians and dancers have a way of talking that just makes you want to listen for hours?? Even the young Sarangi player... you can feel his connection with music.

Then my favourites: Atif Aslam with Riyaz Ali Khan doing a fusion of Kinara and Man Kunto Maula:

Behind the scenes:

Final performance:

And Jal Pari - with a bit of Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan injected into it! From the word "Piya" - they mix in Nusrat saab's Mera Piya Ghar Aaya qawwali in - genius!

Behind the scenes:

Actual performance:

Let me know what you think!

Sona xx

Going back in time: Maharaja, India's Royal Courts at the V&A

After much anticipation I finally visited the V&A on a pretty glorious November Sunday. The sun was shining, the sky was blue and there was a fresh chill in the air - but I was wrapped up and wearing my uggs and ready to take on the tourist packed streets of South Ken! After a stroll through Hyde Park and a quick stop off at Le Pain Quotidienne for a coffee and some mindblowingly delicious ginger cake, we got to the museum. I was SO excited!

Now for those of you who know me, you'll know that I'm a bit obsessed with the era of Mughals and Maharajas, and some of my friends and I secretly do believe that we were Maharanis in our previous lives. We must have been! We still have some princess tendencies :) But I've also read quite a bit on India's maharajas and maharanis, it's all so fascinating, and to think that they ruled India until only about 60 years ago...

Some facts about the eccentric Maharajas:

Miserly Maharaja
60 years ago, the Nizam of Hyderabad was the richest man in the world. His fortune amounted to £500 million, £400 million of which was from the jewels from his very own mine, including the Kohinoor. But he was super stingy, For 35 years he wore the same soiled, dandruff-encrusted fez. Although he owned a gold service of 100 plates, he always ate off a tin plate, squatting on the floor. He smoked the cigarette stubs left behind by his guests.

Polygamist Maharaja
Bhupinder Singh married at least 10 times (He is said to have 365 wives ) and had numerous consorts besides. From those unions, he sired an estimated 88 children of whom at least 53 survived him. He was the proud owner of the world famous necklace "The Patiala Necklace" manufactured by Cartier. (See picture below).

Dog -Obsessed Maharaja
The ruler of Junagarh had an apartment for his pet dogs. The apartment was equipped, with a telephone, electricity and domestic servants. He entertained 150,000-people at the marriage of his favorite dog!!!

A great book to read for more on the maharajas is Freedom at Midnight by Dominique Lapierre and Larry Collins. Or The Last Mughal by William Dalrymple.

Anyway, back to the exhibition. It takes you through 18th, 19th and 20th centuries, starting from Mughal rule to the Raj. And opens with a magnificent set up of a bejewelled elephant, with the maharaja's seat perched on top and a beautiful parasol. There are many exquisite paintings of the processions, grand dinners and the palace grounds, portraits come a little later. I won't go into too much detail, but the highlights for me were the Dolis (Palanquins), one of which was so beautiful, it had pictures of Lord Krishna inside. I got caught up in dreamworld as I poked my head inside to get a closer look, only to be brought back to reality by the alarm that I set off! Needless to say I swiftly moved on to the next room.

The other highlight had to be the jewels at the very end. If there's one thing you've got to see at this exhibition it's the The Patiala Necklace - the most expensive necklace ever made by Cartier. (See picture). This thing will leave you lost for words and the sparkle from the diamonds light up the room. I think it would go wonderully well in my jewellery collection - oh yeah. Also worth seeing is the vintage Rolls Royce (see pic below), unfortunately, I don't remember who it belonged to, the staff at the V&A were chucking us out to close up.

I do wish there was more on the Maharanis, seeing their jewels and saris would have been maha fun. I had really high expectations of this exhibition, and when I left the museum I felt some discontent, I wanted more! (See I told you princess tendencies!). But it's definitely worth seeing, and very educational. But do allow yourself some time to see the rest of the museum too, just don't set the alarm off like I did!

Your highness,
Maharani Sona xx (Also pictured below!)

P.S. Maharanis by Lucy Moore is another excellent book on the oppulent but often oppresive lives of the Maharanis.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Maharanis-Lives-Generations-Indian-Princesses/dp/0141009721

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